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IT ADDS color to rooms in our homes, schools, offices and factories. Automobiles and toys are made attractive by it. It protects buildings, farm machinery and tools from the wind, rain, and heat from the sun. Truly, that colorful coating, paint, is enjoying wider popularity than at any time in history.

Thousands of millions of dollars annually are spent for it; Canadians alone lay out almost 200 million dollars a year for paint. In Canada more than 150 paint plants produce this colorful coating. And in the United States over 635,000,000 gallons of paint are sold by manufacturers each year. That is enough paint to cover some 11,400 square miles, or an area almost the size of the Netherlands!

Thousands of Years of Use

The use of paint is not of recent origin. Ancient peoples, particularly the Egyptians, realized that certain pigments found in the soil could be mixed with a liquid and applied to their buildings. For example, colorful reds and yellows were obtained by mixing ochers with water.

Also, pigments were imported from other countries to supplement those found in the Egyptian soil. From the madder roots, which were imported from India, various shades of red, violet and brown were prepared. And from the indigo plant a deep blue color was produced.

Other civilizations were quick to copy the techniques of paint making developed by the Egyptians. Roman artists made use of the same colors and, with few exceptions, the same methods of producing them. However, after the fall of the Roman Empire of the West in 476 C.E. the art of making paints virtually disappeared.

It was near the end of the Middle Ages that the use of paint for decorative and protective purposes began its reemergence in England. At first paints were used chiefly on churches. Then they were used on public buildings and the houses of the wealthy. Since paint was expensive to produce, it was a mark of social distinction to have one’s dwelling painted.

It was not until the 1700’s that paint was made commercially by a few persons who went into the business in the United States and Europe. These early manufacturers produced only the materials for paint; the painter was required to do his own mixing and formulating. It was not until 1867 that prepared paints were first marketed. The development in the late 1800’s of new machines for grinding and mixing enabled paint manufacturers to turn out large volumes of paint, and soon paint making entered an era of rapid development.

The Ingredients

It is estimated now that most paint manufacturers carry an inventory of almost 1,000 different items. Perhaps as many as 500 of these are in daily use. Great strides have been made in the development of new paints. Indeed, not long ago a popular magazine observed: “Eighty-five percent of the paints on sale today didn’t even exist five years ago.” Yet, paint raw materials might be classified into four main groups:Pigments,vehicles,solvents or thinners and additives.

Pigments are the substances that give color and opacity to paint coatings. The ancients frequently used vegetable and animal matter to color their paints, but these are of little importance in paint making today. Still used, however, are earth pigments, called natural or mineral pigments. These are obtained from certain earths that are mined, finely ground and refined. But the most commonly used pigments today are chemical ones.

The vehicle is that part of the paint that carries the pigment. It may consist of oils or varnishes. Drying oils that are used in paint vehicles have the property of converting from a liquid to a solid state when exposed to the oxygen of the air. The paint vehicle thus dries and hardens when it contacts the air. The resulting hard film holds the pigment on the painted surface.

Perhaps the most common thinners for paint are either water or turpentine. These are added to thin the paint to the proper viscosity or thickness for easy spreading on a surface. Although thinners, too, might be considered part of the vehicle, they function somewhat differently in a paint. They begin to evaporate after application of the paint on a surface, leaving the film-forming material exposed for permanent drying.

Paint additives often include compounds of lead, manganese or cobalt. These accelerate the drying of the paint.

How Paint Is Made

Paint is basically a dispersion of colored pigments in a vehicle or liquid medium. The paint maker prepares a rather heavy paste by mixing together dry pigments and a portion of the vehicle. This process might be compared with what a housewife does when she mixes ingredients with her mechanical mixer, perhaps in preparing cake batter. In paint making the mixing cycle is continued until a fluid but somewhat lumpy paste is formed.

The next step requires what is known as grinding. A roller mill of steel cylinders that rotate against each other is frequently used for this. The purpose of the grinding is to pull the pigment particles apart so that each particle will be coated by the resinous vehicle. Another type of mill consists of a revolving drum partly filled with steel balls. By constantly revolving for many hours, the steel balls are able to disperse the pigment particles throughout the vehicle.

After the grinding process, the balance of the vehicle as well as the solvent thinners are added. Also, driers often are added at this time. But when the enclosed steel-ball mill is used, all ingredients generally are included from the beginning. Of course, with the development of water-base paints new types of equipment are used for dispersing pigments and liquids. Tinting of the batch comes next, adding just the proper amount of color to give the batch the exact shade desired. Finally, the paint is moved to automatic machines that fill, cover and code the containers.

The Colors to Use

Since all of us enjoy pleasant surroundings, it will be of interest to consider how you might add pleasantness to your home by employing that colorful coating—paint. Home decorators usually choose colors that will complement other articles in a room, such as those in furniture, rugs or draperies.

Light colors in a small room will create an impression of size, a point to remember when decorating apartments. A continuous flow of neutral tints through several rooms adds an air of spaciousness, inviting one to accent these tints with colorful rugs, cushions or pictures. Keep in mind, though, that an excessive number of colors in any one room can give a cluttered look.

Here are additional helpful hints: Tints of yellow, peach and rose are warm colors. They create a comfortable and mellow charm in rooms facing north and east. Greens and blues in their pastel tones are pages from the marvelous creation around us. One can just feel the cool, relaxing atmosphere imparted by these colors in rooms facing south and west. Rich, bright colors, such as reds and oranges, are exciting colors. But a word of caution. One might tire of them easily. They have a stimulating effect, often reflecting youthful personality or that of one who likes change. Therefore, they often can be suited to the bedrooms of children.

When choosing colors, remember that when a paint is spread over a large area it will appear darker than it does on a small color sample. Therefore, select a lighter shade and it will probably be the color you desire when it is applied to a wall. Also, since colors change under artificial light, it is wise to observe color samples both in daylight and in night light.

Selecting the Proper Coating

Paint is made in a number of finishes, ranging from a high gloss to a flat finish. Generally a low gloss or flat finish will give the most pleasing appearance on a large surface. Flat paints have a greater proportion of pigment to binder, hence they have a rougher finish that scatters the light in all directions. Thus, fewer surface irregularities will show when using a flat paint. However, flat finishes have the shortcoming of being more subject to soiling, and are more difficult to clean.

Thus, if frequent cleaning is necessary, as in a kitchen, bathroom, hallway, or in cupboards and on wood trim, it would be practical to apply a semigloss or highgloss paint. Semigloss would seem to be a compromise that will afford ease of cleaning and will not reflect too many surface imperfections.

In living rooms and bedrooms, a pleasing appearance often overshadows serviceability. Hence a home decorator might choose a flat finish. In the closets, though, where there might be a tendency to mark up the walls, a semigloss paint will make for easier cleaning and a brighter appearance. But since a flat paint has more hiding power and thus often requires but one coat, this is something to consider if time and cost are factors.

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Source by Jeams Hinaloc

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The VW is car manufacturing company that had paid more attention on the performance from the car than on the comforts that it provided to its owner. This made things harder to the VW when the competition got harder. It then started making big changes within the interiors and also gave excellent sound system to the people. Though it was good, there were many incidents when the change of stereos was inevitable. There could be a problem within the performance from the head unit or the owner would like to stay updated with the latest technological developments within the head unit. Below are a few instructions on how you can remove a jetta oem head unit.

There are some basic things that would help out with fixing the problem of removing the head unit from the car. The tools which are needed are the special tools for removing the head unit that is provided by the VW themselves and a wrench which is ten millimetre in size. The steps and instructions given within the following paragraphs are moderately difficult to follow.

The first within the other steps of removing the battery is a precautionary step of disconnecting the battery. The hood of car is opened. Then, the batterys negative end is removed from the port; with the help from the small wrench that you posses. This is necessarily done to prevent the electrical shock that it may produce. This terminal is connected to the frame from the car.

The other end of this terminal is also disconnected. This wire is then laid away from the battery. This is done to ensure safe steps within the removal from the battery.

The tools for this purpose are manufactured by the car makers themselves and are generally available in all leading shops that sell spare parts for automobiles. This is purchased. With the help of this tool, the head unit can be easily driven out from the slit with no effort at all. Insert the tool within the openings that present around the head unit. Push it gently, till the tool clicks in its position.

Once it is placed within the proper position, push it away from the head unit, and it will be seen that the head unit is free to be removed. This is because the tool has removed all the clips that hold the head unit. Once it is free, pull it out slightly and remove the head unit to a distance that is sufficient for removing the wires

Once the wires are all disconnected the head unit is easy to remove fully. The removal from the wires that connect the antenna, power from battery, and connections to the speakers is easy to remove in any order. This can be done either with hands or using a tool

After the above tips on how you can remove a jetta oem head unit are followed, the negative terminal within the battery from the car may be reconnected using wrench. This is done when you have no ideas of fixing another radio to be used.

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Source by Jack Wylde

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Autumn:  Promote A Harvest Festival

Everyone loves a good harvest festival or Oktoberfest!  Your organization can easily start and nurture a small annual festival event of your very own as a fundraiser.  Essential to any such fest is a healthy supply of delicious fall foods and fun seasonal activities.  Maybe arranging a pick-your-own pumpkin patch or offering evening hayrack rides and a bonfire would work out well.

Of course, if planning and hosting your very own fall festival from scratch seems a bit over-ambitious, you can always find a partner.  For example, many orchards, farms, and wineries already offer all kinds of festive autumn activities—your organization could team up with these folks for a day or a weekend to kind of make the event your own or maybe just to set up your own booth.

Winter:  Provide Christmas Tree Removal

For all of the folks out there who purchase holiday wreathes and trees for decoration, it’s always fun and festive to actually do the seasonal decorating—but having to undo it all is, well…not so fun.  A great winter season fundraiser for a capable group or organization involves a little Christmastime cleanup.  

Why not organize a tree and wreath disposal fundraiser?  It’s simple; just set up a post-holiday weekend for everyone to chip in, and with a few trucks, pick up disposed greenery and transport it to your local area compost site for a reasonable donation.  Start by calling friends, family, and neighbors a few days in advance (and ask for referrals too)—you’ll have a solid weekend worth of pick-ups in no time at all!

Spring:  Host A Plant Sale

Hosting a plant sale fundraiser is absolutely perfect for the springtime!  A time when people get excited about driving to the nurseries and garden centers to plan their seasonal landscapes and gardens, your organization can easily carve its own little niche within the popular pastime.

One way to do something a bit different than all of the home centers—and make a little bit of extra profit for your fundraiser while you’re at it—is to have members of your organization donate their own cuttings or plant bulb splitting (like hostas or hydrangeas, for example).  Sometimes perennials like these can be quite expensive to purchase from a nursery, while many home gardeners are eagerly looking for a suitable way to thin out their plantings.  It’s a win-win for your group!

Summer:  Sell Your Own Custom Flip Flops

As popular as flip flops are these days, a great beginning of summer fundraiser for your group could be to have your own custom flip flops created and sell them to raise money.  You could use your group’s logo or message to help spread the word—or you could even come up with some other snappy slogan that matches the demographics of who you’ll be selling them to.

Another idea that fits the theme could be to host a BBQ or swim party and offer your custom printed sandals for sale there (or even give them away as a welcome gift to those registering for the event).  After all, you’d be surprised how inexpensively customized flips can be printed in bulk—and who needs another T-shirt in their already overfilled dresser drawers?

Hopefully one of these seasonal fundraising ideas will work for you, or at least help inspire your own creative ideas.  Best of luck with your group’s next fundraiser!

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Source by Kathy Klossner

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Sock-knitting machines are used to make socks. You can also knit mittens, scarves using the sock-knitting machine. Sock knitting machines are antiques and they are not made any more. Sock knitting machines are very old, approximately. 80 to 100 years old. Its history dates back to 1800 and 1900 this was used at home only. It is very easy to knit a sock, in the sock-knitting machine. It takes an hour to knit a sock. Different sizes of socks can be made in the sock-knitting machine. One can make ankle socks, knee socks, men’s and ladies, kid’s socks in the machine.

There are many easy to use -patterned sock yarns, sold in the market. These yarns can be used in the sock-knitting machine. Sport weight yarns are also used in the machine. Worsted weight yarns can be used also on the slot cylinders. This yarn does mock ribbing. Opal, Loma’s laces, Regia, Trekking XXL and Alpaca yarns, are also used in the sock-knitting machine. It is very easy to learn the process of making sock using the sock-knitting machine. There are annual conferences, where people learn by attending classes.

There are different patterns and ways to knit socks, using the machine. There is a cylinder with slots for the needles in the machine and the needles have latches. When the needle passes in the cam shell path, the knitting is made. The first step is to setup a basket or bonnet which makes the needles move continuously. After the setup of bonnet, scrap or waste yarn should be used. When knitting, the yarn ball winder should be used to keep the yarn at an even tension. The main purpose of using the waste yarn, is when the sock is finished the yarn can be clipped and ribbed out. Now the hem of the sock is made. The number of rows should be counted when the carrier goes around the cylinder, while knitting. Hem top should be knitted by taking a stitch from the first row, and should be hanged on the needle.

A ribber is put on the machine, after the hem and purl stitches are made. When the ribber is put, the stitches are transferred from cylinder needle to ribber needle. After this, the ankle part of sock is knitted. Half of the stitches are transferred, from ribber needle to cylinder needle. This will create knit stitches on the ankle. The start and stop points are marked red on the cylinder, for the heel and toes. The heel is knitted on the front of the machine, and the back half needles are not used here. Once the heel is made, the foot we begin the foot of the sock. After the foot is made, the toe is made. Now the stitches of the ribber, are transferred to the cylinder needle. Ribber stitches are made on the top of the foot, and knitting stitches of the machine are made on the bottom of the foot. Now on the top of the toe, is made with Kitchener stitch. The sock has been knitted fully, by the sock-knitting machine.

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Source by Muna wa Wanjiru

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The buyer arrives at his preferred choice by one of several methods.
But once such decisions are made, they are usually irreversible, as with most product loyal customers. This seed may have been planted years back during a memorable afternoon on an uncle’s boat . Or perhaps it was a good article written about the boat that made such an impression that the buyer looks for just one particular brand in the boating classifieds.
Trojan certainly has its loyal following. The F32 series, in particular, broke all sales records. Over a period of nearly 20 years, some 2,700 rolled off a line at that Lancaster, P.A., plant – more than any other production boat in its size range. And the F32 is still a highly sought after boat today.
“They were certainly popular because of their space and price,” says broker Joan Kelly of McMichael Yacht Sales in
Mamaroneck, N.Y.
“When one comes up far sale, if it’s in good shape and has low hours, it will not last long. There aren’t too many flybridges in a certain price range – such as the Trojan F32 or the Silverton 34. They had a nice traditional look, and a great fishing boat, and you can still buy them reasonably.”

Dollars & Cents

When introduced in 1973, the F32 Sedan sold for $29,000. Five years later, the base price of the F32 sadan was up to $40,600. Equipped with the standard 225 Chryslers and later the F32 was equipped with 350 Crusaders V-8s, the F32 had a cruising speed between 15 and 22 mph (2500-3000
rpm), with a top speed of 32.3 mph (4,ooo rpm).
After 1983, standard tankage was increased to 220 gallons. Today’s buyer considering a used to Trojan may find a range of $44,800 to $51,500 for a 1988 F32 Sedan. A 1974 recently appeared on the Web for $29,500 – roughly its original price. In Massachusetts, a 1977 with 250s was
offered at $39,500.

The Beginning Of The F32

The F32 was among Trojan’s first ventures into fiberglass construction. From 1949 to 1964, Trojan built exclusively in wood, developing a momentum and reputation for affordable craftsmanship.
But with the 1960 introduction of fiberglass as a building material, Trojan would not be the first boat-builder to make the switch to fiberglass. Trojan president James R. McQueen wanted to make sure fiberglass construction was going to hold up under marine conditions before committing to what would be a major capital transition costs for molds, methods and tooling, recalls Jim Ressler, Trojan’s chief engineer from 1970 to 1977.
“Jim McLean was very much a wood advocate and reluctant to switch to fiberglass construction”, says Ressler. “But he was cognizant that much of the industry was going to fiberglass, whether he liked it or not”.
The F-series came out in 1970 – with the ”F” denoting fiberglass construction. The F32s that you see today first appeared in the summer of 1972 with teak on the foredecks and cockpit – a design that lasted only for a short period of time . The last F32 was built in 1992.
Of the three models offered, the F32 Sedan (model # 321) was by far the most popular than the F32 Express (model #320) or the F32 Sports Fisherman ( model #322). Only about 20 percent were ordered with the long cockpit and diminished house area of the Express. And only two-or three dozen of the F32 Sports fishermen (model #322) were sold, according to Ressler.

Right Time, Right Place

The birthplace of the Trojan F32s was just east of Lancaster, P.A., about 70 miles west of Philadelphia. Built in the 1960s on about 55 acres, the Trojan plant
had almost 300 employees working two shifts on three assembly lines – at one point all of them building F32s, recalls Ressler.

At its peak, production volume was between 8 and 10 boats a week, he says – more than 400 a year. Although today’s literature says 2,700 were built Ressler estimates the total number of F32s at closer to 3,000. The ride eventually ended with the late 80s implosion of the boat building industry: bankruptcy and asset buyout. The molds for the F32’s were cut into pieces with a chainsaw, but not
the F32 legacy. “Jay” Crumlish of Chester, Md., sold Trojan’s for almost 18 years. His father, the
late John Joseph “J. J.” Crumlisch Jr., was Trojan’s regional sales manager for the mid-Atlantic and influenced his son in the direction of yacht sales.
Crumlisch, too, remembers the Lancaster plant. At its peak, “they were flying off a line he says. But the fit and cabinetry weren’t rushed.”
Why was the F32 such popular boat? “This was wider than most boats,” says Crumlish.” It had a good reputation and was economical to run. That was certainly the heyday of boat production, though.
“They hit the market at the right time.” The F32 layout remained largely unchanged throughout its long production run. Sedan models have a 60 – square-foot cockpit, and enclosed ”main salon” of about 73 sq. ft. that includes the standard lower helm to starboard, and is simply appointed yet bright and spacious interior. Forward, a wide V- berth is flanked port and starboard by ample shelving with hanging lockers providing the privacy bulkhead. On port, the head is forward of
the galley, which abuts the aft bulkhead. On the
starboard, a large dinette converts to double berth.
The Express version answered a different equation: With no” family room,” there is more space available for the cockpit and interior.
Dennis Killian
http://trojanboatforsale.com

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Source by Dennis Eugene Killian

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                                                                            Stamping Concrete-Do It Yourself and Save Money

  You will want to start out by picking your colors.  Some folks think that this can be one of the most complicated parts of stamping concrete. But as long as you are not to picky I’ll show you how pick out your colors.  You may choose to start off with color swatches, the best way I have found to pick your color from a color swatch is to pick a color from the swatch and then go back one or two colors to get the actual color that you want.  This is very similar to picking out a color that you want to paint a room.  There are many variables such as indoor lighting and the other colors in the room (sofa’s, rugs drapes etc.) that you wish to paint.  I am sure that you have picked out a color at the paint store and started to paint your room and suddenly you noticed it just doesn’t seem to match the color you picked from the color swatch, from the paint store.  This is what I call perceived vision.

  If you can understand what I have just mentioned this also applies to picking out a color for your stamped concrete job, there are many variables of perceived vision, such as sunlight and surrounding colors, such as the color of your house, landscaping and grass. One other way to pick your colors is to visit your decorative concrete supplier and check out some of the samples or photos they may have hanging on there wall.  You may ask them or any one else if they know of somewhere there is a stamped concrete project is at so you can see the actual finished project and see for yourself how it either blends or contrast with the surrounding landscape.

  Let’s start pouring and finishing your stamped concrete project, I suggest that you start with no more than 100 square feet.  First, let the concrete truck driver put the color into the concrete truck for you, and let it mix for at least 10 minutes.  Often you may notice some streaking of the color as it comes out of the concrete truck, not to worry.  You will want some color differences as this will resemble the natural colors of what ever impressions or stamp that you have chosen for your project.  For example if you look at a rock you will notice that it has many shades of the same color and often some other colors.  Your next step will be to insert the concrete into your forms, you will need what is called a screed board or a 2″x 4″, the purpose of a screed board is to level out the concrete inside of your forms and to also knock down the aggregate or rocks inside the cement.  Drop the wet concrete inside your form work and leave it about a ½” higher than the top of your forms.  A good way to get a rough grade is to use a tool called a concrete rake or a square edged shovel will do.  After you have gotten the concrete ½” above your form work you can start the “screed” process.  You will definitely need someone to help you with this process.  After you have found someone to help you, here is what needs to be done. Each person will get on one side of the screed board, as each of you will start to pull the concrete towards the end of the form work leveling as you go along.  At this point you will need a bull float to close the surface of the concrete.  Generally you will run the bull float from top to bottom across the concrete overlapping each previous pass approximately 50% and then repeat the process from side to side.  Do not worry about getting it completely flat, as once you begin to stamp it will not be flat at all.  Do not get hung up on small dips or small elevation changes in the concrete. Now you may begin to edge the perimeter of the concrete with an edging tool, again do not get hung up on doing this perfect, especially if this is your first time. Now you will run a fresno across your project in the same manner as the bull float.

  Ok you are ready  to stamp your project. Before the concrete truck gets there, you will want to pour the liquid release into a garden sprayer and also get yourself some surface retardant and do the same.  Liquid release simply allows you to place the rubber stamp onto the concrete without removing the finish of your concrete, the surface retardant will slow the setting time of the concrete if you feel you are getting a little behind.  Simply spray the area you will be placing your stamp with liquid release and the stamp itself before you place the stamp onto the concrete.  You will not want to spay the entire project at once as this will speed up the setting time of the concrete and it will more than likely dry up before you get to the end of your project.  Lay each stamp down and set the next stamp tight against the stamping mat that is already on the concrete, making sure that the handles on the stamps face the same direction. If you have help it is best to designate a specific role for each person.  What I mean by that is, one person will spray the liquid release, one person shall pick up and place the stamp mats and the other person will actually step on the mat and make sure it has left a good impression. Repeat this process until you reach the end.  One other thing you might do while your stamping is to use a roller tool to flatten out the bead that will form when you place the mats together.  You may also want to do this process with a hand grinder after the concrete sets.

  Let your project cure (set) for about 3-5 days and it is time to add secondary colors or the antique stage.  For this you will need to pick out an antique agent, I suggest you use charcoal or grey for your first time.  You will also need to get some xylene, one gallon for every 80_90 square feet.  You will then add 5 tbsp. of antique agent to the xylene in a 1 gallon garden sprayer and stir or shake for about 45 seconds.  In a circular motion spray the secondary colors, or antique, onto the stamped concrete project, ( spray only a small area at first, let it dry and you should see a light dusting on top of your project) keeping in mind to spray some areas thicker that others, while being careful not to spray it on to thick, this will give you a more natural looking finish.

Let the xylene dry and apply two coats of; non-yellowing, solvent based acrylic sealant.  Your project will be a lot darker when you apply the sealant than you anticipated, not to worry, the sealant also needs to cure.  Within a day or two it will lighted up to your perceived vision. 

   If you have further questions about this process you may visit my web site for further details.  I am at www.howtocrete.com  How to Crete

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Source by John Mindrup

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Catfish are common fish found in freshwater aquariums. Catfish are very unique and differ from other fish in regards to their health and care. The most distinguishing feature of a catfish is the prominent “barbells”, which look like whiskers on a cat, hence giving these one of a kind fish their name. The other thing that set catfish apart from any other fish is the fact that they have no scales. They also possess a strong, hollow ray on their fins that a stinging protein can be emitted from if the fish is irritated or in danger.

The most common catfish found in aquariums are the armored catfish. This group is smaller in size than other types of catfish and make a great addition to an aquarium. When you are setting up your tank initially, it is best to decide then whether you are going to house catfish. Your decision will impact the type of gravel or sand you will use as well as the pH of the water within the tank. Armored catfish prefer soft bottom material because they forage for food within the substrate. Catfish feel more secure when they are hidden from the light, so be sure to have caves and hiding places for this type of fish.

Overall, the care of catfish does not vary from caring for your other fish. You should try to include a food that will settle on the bottom of the tank as these fish are bottom feeders. The water should have a temperature in the middle to upper seventies and the pH should be neutral. This is usually the same set up and water balance you will use to house other fish as well, so it should not be a major concern when you add your catfish.

Catfish are known to be somewhat goofy and comical, but this may depend on the species of catfish you have. Their behavior will vary, but as a whole, the catfish is an entertaining addition to an aquarium. There are group and schooling catfish that get along well with each other. There are also loners who always stay away from their neighbors. Catfishes are the ideal candidates for community tanks because they inhabit niches and shelters on the bottom not occupied by other aquarium inhabitants. They generally get along well with all types of fish. Only in combination with some larger Cichlids can there be a problem as the Cichlids tend to extend their territorial claim to the entire tank.

The one thing to consider before adding a catfish to your existing aquarium set-up is the size of the other fish. While catfish generally get along with most fish, they are a predator and will attack and feed on smaller fish. Catfish are also nocturnal, and should be fed later in the day or at night. You may have to adjust the feeding times depending on what your schedule is now and what other types of fish inhabit the tank. With the number of species of Armored catfish, you will be sure to have a colorful and amusing aquarium with the addition of these comical fish. As with all fish, be sure to keep the aquarium clean and healthy so as to ensure the health of the fish as well as your enjoyment for years to come.

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Source by Li Ming Wong